How Is a Roof Tarped Correctly After Storm Damage?

A correct tarp job starts with a clean, dry roof surface. The pro removes loose debris, nails, and sharp edges that could puncture the tarp. They then roll out a tarp large enough to cover the damaged area plus several feet on all sides. The tarp should extend over the roof ridge to direct water to the other side.

Fastening is critical. The pro lays wooden battens along the tarp's edges and across its middle, then drives nails or screws through both the batten and tarp into the roof deck. Spacing is close, about every 12 to 16 inches. This holds the tarp tight against the roof so wind cannot lift it.

Chimneys, vents, and skylights complicate tarping. The pro cuts the tarp to fit around these features, leaving a few extra inches. They then tuck the tarp under flashing or secure it with additional battens. This prevents water from running behind the tarp and into the home.

For valleys where two roof slopes meet, the tarp follows the valley line. The pro may use two tarps, overlapping them at the valley, with the upper tarp laid over the lower one. This creates a shingled effect that channels water down the roof instead of letting it pool.

Tarping a roof is dangerous work. Slopes, wet surfaces, and wind make falls a real risk. If you cannot safely reach the roof or if the damage is extensive, local water damage pros can handle it. They bring ladders, safety gear, and the right materials to do the job.

They also know how to secure a tarp so it lasts until permanent repairs happen. If you live in Port St. Lucie, keep your insurance adjuster's contact handy. Policies vary, and your insurer decides what is covered. Document the damage with photos before any work begins.

• Never climb a roof in wet or windy conditions
• Use a spotter or harness if you attempt it yourself
• Take photos of the damage for your records
• Check your policy to understand what is covered
• Ask about temporary repairs versus permanent fixes